Once across the border, Wagonmaster Bert led us down
the highways, using CB radio to communicate roadside bird sightings,
hazards, and directions to his several miles of followers. Rest
and lunch stops were coordinated when possible with gas stops at the
giant parking lots of the government Pemex stations, but sometimes we
had no alternative to pulling off on the shoulder. In many places
Mexico's single-lane, potholed roads have given way to divided-lane,
high-speed toll roads, with parking lots and toilets at the moderately
expensive toll booths. Navigation was worst through cities, where
anarchic traffic, frequent stoplights, and poorly marked turns made
keeping in contact difficult. Tailgunners Dan and Sue always
brought up the rear, making sure no one was left behind and stopping to
render assistance if necessary. When Lee and Pat Yoder's "Black
Stallion" sputtered to a stop, Dan and a local mechanic worked for
hours before
discovering that it had simply run out of gas.
|
|
|
Down
through central
Mexico (Wr) |
Roadside
rest
stop (H) |
"It's the
fuel gauge, stupid!"(H) |
Our route was carefully planned to give us longer
stays of up to a week in the best birding areas, with overnight stops
between them scheduled at comfortable intervals. Campgrounds
ranged the gamut from shadeless parking lots with no facilities to
extremely comfortable and inviting. Wagonmaster Shari was the
tireless mistress of our peripatetic hearth, shoehorning our
arriving vehicles into each new place, handling the fees, and
orienting us for each new leg at an early morning travel
meeting. Her margarita recipe was legendary, and she was
constantly arranging potlucks and visits to villages and establishments
celebrated for various crafts and products.
|
|
|
Squeezing'em
in,
Patzcuaro (Wr) |
Neighborly
chat, San Miguel (M)
Richard
Hoyle, Charlie, June Hoyle
|
Our last
travel
meeting, La
Pesca (F) |
Each day we weren't
traveling, Wagonmaster Bert led a birding expedition to a carefully
selected area, for each of which he had distributed lists of species to
be expected, as well as lists of all Mexico/Belize species on which to
record our individual species counts. For local transport we
used the pickup trucks along with mini-SUVs that some of our rigs were
towing. We took our identification manuals along, and many a
field
seminar was held on doubtful sightings. Returning by late
afternoon, we gathered with our folding chairs, snacks, and not
infrequently margaritas, to socialize while compiling a definitive bird
list for the day.
|
|
|
Campground
birding, Zitacuaro (M)
Coen Dexter, May Gong,
Carolyn
|
Field ID
seminar, Monte
Alban {Wr)
Lee Yoder, Woody
Woodhouse, Coen Dexter
|
Roadside
birding, La Pesca (Wr)
Ralph Wiggers, Charlie, June Hoyle, Lee
Yoder |
Initials appended to
photos indicate copyright (2003) by (F) Bert Frenz: (H) Dan and Sue
Hertz; (M) Carolyn Merchant; and (Wr) Brenda Wright.
Click
Here for Border to San Miguel de Allende, Jan. 15-19
Back to Main Mexico/Belize Page